How to Beat the Heat (and the burn!) (5)

Photography by Jeffrey Fiterman / Model Lyndsay Marie at Photogenics / Make Up by Julianne Kaye

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, more than 1million new cases of skin cancer will be diagnosed in the US, this year alone. Sun protection is the principal means of preventing premature aging and skin cancer. It’s never too late to protect yourself and minimize your future risks.

Sunlight consists of two types of harmful rays — ultraviolet A (UVA) rays and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays. UVA rays (which pass through window glass) penetrate deeper into the dermis, the thickest layer of the skin. UVA rays can cause suppression of the immune system, which interferes with the body’s ability to protect you against the development and spread of skin cancer. UVA exposure also is known to lead to signs of premature aging of the skin such as wrinkling and age spots due to free radical proliferation, which leads to the breakdown of skin structure. The UVB rays are the sun’s burning rays (which are blocked by window glass) and are the primary cause of sunburn. A good way to remember it is that UVA rays are the aging rays, and UVB rays are the burning rays. Excessive exposure to both forms of UV rays can lead to the development of skin cancer & serious signs of aging.

Lest you think it’s ok to skip the sun and head for the tanning bed instead, the United States Department of Health & Human Services has declared ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and artificial sources, such as tanning beds and sun lamps, as known carcinogens (cancer-causing devices or substances).

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. Sunscreens are rated or classified by the strength of their SPF. The SPF numbers on the packaging can range from as low as 2 to greater than 50. These numbers refer to the product’s ability to deflect the sun’s burning rays. The sunscreen SPF rating is calculated by comparing the amount of time needed to produce sunburn on sunscreen protected skin, to the amount of time needed to cause sunburn on unprotected skin. UVB protection does not actually increase proportionately with a designated SPF number.

For example, an SPF of 30 screens 97 percent of UVB rays, while an SPF of 15 screens 93 percent of UVB rays and an SPF of 2 screens 50 percent of UVB rays. However, inadequate application of sunscreen may result in a lower SPF than the product contains. While using a higher SPF provides greater UVB protection than a lower SPF, it does not mean that you should stay out in the sun longer. An example of how long it will work for: if a sunscreen is rated SPF 2 and a person who would normally turn red after ten minutes of exposure in the sun uses it, it would take twenty minutes of exposure for the skin to turn red. A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 would allow that person to multiply that initial burning time by 15, which means it would take 15 times longer to burn, or 150 minutes. Even with this protection, sunscreen photo degrades (breaks down) and rubs off with normal wear, so it needs to be reapplied at least every two hours.

Whatever sunscreen SPF is chosen, wearing sunscreen should not provide a false sense of security about protection from UVB exposure as no sunscreen can provide 100 percent UVB protection. Studies show that unlike other common sunscreen chemicals, little to no zinc and titanium absorb through the skin, and they provide stable UVA & UVB protection relative to the other ingredients. Most sunscreens absorb and disperse the radiation through chemical interaction with other ingredients; zinc oxide & titanium dioxide simply reflect the suns rays with no absorption. For these reasons many zinc and titanium-based sunscreens appear at the top of the recommended product lists on Skin Deep, the Cosmetic Safety Database often used as a guide for what’s considered safe, and not.

In a nutshell, the bad news is, there is no safe way to tan. A tan is the skin’s response to injury caused by UV exposure. Tanning occurs when ultraviolet rays penetrate the epidermis, the skin’s outer layer causing the production of melanin as a response to the injury. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet light, both natural and artificial, results in a change in the skin’s texture, causing wrinkling and age spots. Thus, tanning to improve appearance is ultimately self-defeating because every time you tan, you damage your skin, and this damage accumulates over time. The accumulated damage, in addition to accelerating the aging process, also increases your risk for all types of skin cancer.

However, the good news is, you no longer need to subject yourself to hours in the sunshine to get that healthy, bronzed goddess look you love so much. Instead, check out some of our fabulous fake tan recommendations & buy yourself a tan from a bottle! Fake tans these days represent a vast improvement in color, application and formulation from even five years ago. Also, there are an increasing number of brilliant and effective natural/organic sunscreens now available. For recommendations see our ‘Super Sunscreens’ in this issues Beauty Section.

Really, you have no excuses – get the glow, but get it safely.

TIPS TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM SUN DAMAGE THIS SUMMER:

1.    Most people apply only 25-50 percent of the recommended amount of sunscreen. One ounce, enough to fill a shot glass, is considered the amount needed to cover the exposed areas of the body properly.

2.    While there are a number of combination moisturizers that contain sunscreens these days, it’s important to remember that most of these products do not contain enough SPF to protect you from the sun. If you’re spending time outdoors, add some high SPF to your moisturizer to ensure you’re covered. Reapply after prolonged exposure.

3.    Don’t reserve the use of sunscreen only for sunny days. Even on a cloudy day, up to 80 percent of the sun’s ultraviolet rays can pass through the clouds. In addition, sand reflects 25 percent of the sun’s rays and snow reflects 80 percent of the sun’s rays.

4.    Sunscreens should be applied to dry skin 15-30 minutes BEFORE going outdoors. When using sunscreen, be sure to apply it to all exposed areas and pay particular attention to the face, ears, hands and arms. Coat the skin liberally and rub it in thoroughly. Remember a shot glass, or one ounce is the amount needed to truly protect.

5.    Wear a hat that provides loads of shade and stay out of the sun during peak hours – during summer between 10am – 4pm. Don’t forget that lips get sunburned too, so apply a lip balm that contains sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher.

6.    Sunscreens should be re-applied at least every two hours or after swimming or perspiring heavily. Even so-called “water-resistant” sunscreens may lose their effectiveness after 40 minutes in the water. Sunscreens rub off as well as wash off, so if you’ve towel-dried, reapply sunscreen for continued protection.

7.    There are so many types of sunscreen that selecting the right one can be quite confusing. Sunscreens are available in many forms including ointments, creams, gels, lotions, sprays and wax sticks. The type of sunscreen you choose is a matter of personal choice. Creams are best for individuals with dry skin, but gels are preferable in hairy areas, such as the scalp or male chest. Sticks are good around the eyes & for lips.

8.    Look for formulations that contain broad-spectrum protection from both UVA & UVB rays. Both cause serious harm in different ways so it’s important to shield from each.

9.    Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are generally considered the safest and most effective non-toxic active sunscreen ingredients. Avoid formulations that contain PABA’s, avobenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, parabens, synthetic fragrance.

10.    Keep your stash of organic & natural sunscreen fresh to ensure effectiveness. Throw our your old tubes and start from scratch at the beginning of each new season.